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Alpinismo, Hervé Barmasse sfida con David Gottler in Pakistan la Rupal (8.126 metri) senza ossigeno né corde fisse

Mountain climbing, Hervé Parmasi challenges David Guttler in Pakistan to a Ropal (8126 metres) without oxygen or fixed ropes

Climb the mountains beyond all limits. Aosta Hervey Parmassi Valley Challenge rubal (8126 meters), the longest icy inferno in the world. Without oxygen and fixed ropes.

With him is German David Guttler. The company between January 10 and 20.

Write this name: Hervé Barmasse. The 44-year-old from Daosta Valley, a mountain guide and national coach, has set his sights on a feat no one else has attempted. This is it, climb up the rupal del Nanga Parbat (8126 meters), western Himalayas mountain range; A mountainous mass of Kashmir in Pakistan.

La Rupal – located in the south – is the highest face in the world, first hacked in 1970 by the Messner brothers (and Gunther Messner died during the descent). It was summer. Now Barmasse tries it in the winter.

The first winter in the face of frozen snow and majestic rocks at an altitude of 4,500 metres. Without oxygen, without fixed ropes. gamble? We’ll see.

The attempt is set between January 10 and 20. It depends on the weather (not so good at the moment). The ideal plan is two nights awake and one night. In the worst case three and two. In short, a maximum of five days. I spent the night under a 2kg canopy. The difficulties are great, especially in the upper segment between 7200 and 8200. And it is the last segment that always remains in the shadows.

It is the hardest stretch. one hundred meters per hour. With an additional 25 kilograms on his shoulders, this is the “weight” of a very tall height. Hell reassured.

With Barmasse there will be German David Goettler, 43, the Bavarian doctor, video maker by profession, a hardy experienced mountaineer. For example, last year he climbed Makalu (8,463 metres) without oxygen. He’s of course already there, making the trip with Simone Moreau and Emilio Previtali. It is one of the best German mountaineering promises.

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There will be no American (of Canadian descent) Mike Arnold, 34, famous in the United States for becoming the country’s youngest mountain guide, at the age of 27. Mike has already left the field. Expected abandonment decided by mutual agreement. A Parmassi-style otomela piece, which is lightweight, requires time and a step-by-step approach.

“We’ve been together for over two weeks, and Mike has had a great experience,” says Valle d’Aosta on a satellite phone from the Schell Road base camp.

It continues to snow, the wind is blowing at 150 per hour, not sure to climb the mountain

The base camp is 3500 meters long, which is very equipped with kitchen design, canteen tent with solar panels, shower curtain and shower curtain. The German-Italian duo has adapted well. Ready to slide into the highest icy inferno in the world.